Lash Painting: The Makeup Artist Technique for Clump-Free Mascara
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For as long as Allure editors have been weighing in, one unpopular opinion has lingered: There is no significant difference in the application performance of different types of mascara wands. Whether it's spoolie-like bristles or silicone spikes, uniform size and shape, or swirling like a spiral, the formula itself is what’s to blame for clumping. But never say never: It turns out there’s a mascara wand that actually makes a huge difference—it's just not the one that comes with your mascara, and it looks nothing like it either.
What is lash painting?
For years, savvy makeup artists have been using lash fans, also known as mascara fan brushes, on notoriously tricky bottom lashes, and now they’re taking to social media to share the concept of lash painting. “If you hate bottom-lash mascara, it's because most wands deposit a ton of product,” Rose Siard of Rose and Ben Beauty says. A lash fan completely changes the game by giving you more control over mascara application. Instead of loading up your brush, simply dip the brush onto the sides of the wand to pick up just enough product. “This is something pros use all the time, and obviously, it's a lot more hygienic because we can clean it afterwards,” whereas a mascara wand needs to go straight back in its tube.
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Begin at the base
Makeup artist Kate Talbert, who also posted about lash painting, suggests starting at the base of the lashes because “this is going to give them a little bit of a tightline effect, so it's going to add some definition,” plus, it ensures even separation. You won’t miss any spots, too, because the fanned bristles help catch every lash.
Top it off
Siard also notes that, beyond bottom lashes, this kind of brush is great for hard-to-reach spots along the upper lashes, such as the inner corners. “You have a lot more control because you have length,” she says, referring to the mascara fan’s long, skinny handle. For an extra dose of fluff and volume, Talbert holds her usual mascara wand vertically and lightly brushes through her lashes.
Shop the technique
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Bdellium Tools
730 Bent Lash Fan
Amazon
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Kevyn Aucoin
Angled Fan Mascara Brush
Bergdorf Goodman
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Melt Cosmetics
99 Mascara Fan Brush
Amazon
Nordstrom
If you’re tempted to give lash painting a try, Talbert is using the Bdellium 730 Bent Lash Fan, which costs just $14. Our editors are also quite fond of the Kevyn Aucoin Angled Fan Mascara Brush for its dual-tip applicator. For extra application control, we suggest the Melt Cosmetics 99 Mascara Fan Brush because of its angled tip.
“Does it take an extra two, three seconds? Maybe, not really," Talbert says. “But it's 100% worth it.”
To get the most out of your lash fan, Allure editors recommend the Shu Uemura Iconic Eyelash Curler to lift and prep the lashes before application. And if you accidentally overapply, the Tweezerman Folding I-Lashcomb separates and removes any excess mascara.
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Shu Uemura
Iconic Eyelash Curler
Amazon
Ulta Beauty
Sephora
Save to wishlist
Tweezerman
Folding I-Lashcomb
Amazon
Nordstrom
Ulta Beauty
